What is the best way to know a place? Visit its popular bucket list places, get a taste of the place at the well-known eateries, talk to the local people and attend local festivals. I do all this. But my favourite way to get to know a place is through its local markets— those lively, colourful hubs where daily life unfolds. A place where people shop for their daily needs, a place where new and unique things are found, a place where you find stories in lanes and colours. I found this in Lal Bazar – the local market in Gangtok.

When Yeshey, my homestay host, told me she was going to the Sunday market, I felt excited. Villagers came to sell their fresh produce there. I quickly finished my coffee, grabbed my camera, and joined her. This was my chance to capture a unique picture story of Gangtok.

A visual journey through Lal Bazar Gangtok

The first sight that I fell in love with was the symphony of colours –  red, green, purple, pale yellow – all the colours that a painter would love to play with and a true representation of the vibrant nature of Gangtok.

Lal Bazar Gangtok market was built right in the heart of the city in 1956 and it became a key pit stop on the trade route between Lhasa (Tibet) and Kolkata (then Calcutta). This created a melting pot of cultures and traditions. It encouraged the exchange of goods and ideas among different communities.

This also reflects in the population of Gangtok which is an interesting mix of different communities namely – Bhutia, Lepcha, Nepali, Tibetan, Marwari, Bengali and few others who have settled here for business or work.

On Sundays, Lal Bazar Gangtok market becomes a lively place. It attracts vendors and shoppers from nearby villages. This market becomes the centre for social and economic activities.

Yeshey, armed with bags of different sizes, made her way seamlessly through the familiar lanes. I quietly followed her with my camera, stopping only to capture everything that fascinated me, and mind you everything did.

What makes this market special?

The Sunday morning energy for sure – the chatter of sellers, the bargaining of buyers, the mix of languages unknown to me and fresh aromas floating around. People quickly filling their bags with things only available on a Sunday, buyers looking for the freshest produce that will make way to their dinner table and special delicacies made by the familiar villagers.

Yeshey stopped at different places and showed me the unique vegetables that were available only in northeast India. Most of these vegetables were new to me. Living in the plains, you eat almost the same kind of vegetables throughout the year, but here it changes every few months. And not to forget, it is the only fully organic state in India.

In 2016, the government declared Sikkim, India’s first fully organic state. It took 13 years for the state to adopt and fully implement organic farming. That’s quite an achievement, and you can taste it in the food here, each flavour is enhanced and is satisfying for the palate. And to my surprise it is an excellent place for vegan travellers too.

One of the hottest chillies in the world – Dalle Khursani

This scarlet coloured hot looking small vegetable is actually very hot. While India boasts a wide variety of chillies, this one surely stands out. Locally revered as the ‘round chilli’, Dalle Khursani thrives in the distinctive climate of Sikkim, imparting a fiery kick and unique flavour that sets it apart.

Granted the GI tag in 2020, this bold pepper is essential in enhancing the taste of beloved dishes like momos and pickles, offering a distinct and unforgettable spice. Next time you are in Sikkim, make sure you try it out. I did.

The Tree Tomato

Did you know that there is a variety of tomato which grows on trees, yes, you heard it right. This is the Rukh Tamatar, commonly known as tree tomato. It is a unique fruit that holds a culinary significance in Sikkim, its colour varies from yellow to red to purple.

The plant is native to and one of the most popular fruits in the Andes of Ecuador, Colombia, Peru, Chile, Argentina and Bolivia. Other regions of cultivation are the subtropical areas throughout the world which includes Nagaland, Manipur, Darjeeling and Sikkim in India.

In Sikkimese cuisine, this tomato is used to make pickles, chutneys and a flavourful side dip and is also used in salads and curries. I tasted the chutney that Yeshey made with it, and I loved it.

As I was walking around, I found something that looked familiar—tapioca—a humble yet popular boiled root that we eat in Kerala. Yeshey confirmed that it was the same one. I was surprised to see it in a Gangtok street market. It definitely showed Sikkim’s adaptability to diverse crops. You will find them here in cane baskets or sold in plastic bags. One can pair it with a chutney or with a side dip. In Sikkimese culture, it is used in various traditional dishes from snacks to main course. I was fascinated by how the south meets east with this one vegetable.

It’s all Green

The state of Sikkim is full of variety of seasonal greens. This one here is the Ningro.

Ningro, also known as fiddlehead ferns, are a wild leafy green that are commonly eaten in Sikkim. It is highly valued in Sikkimese cuisine for its unique flavour and nutritional benefits. 

Ningro is usually prepared as a stir-fry or curry. A popular dish is the ningro-churpi curry, which uses churpi, a local cottage cheese.  People love this dish for its earthy flavour and is commonly served with rice.

The use of Ningro in various dishes highlights the traditional practices of utilizing wild edibles among local communities. It also contributes to sustainable food practices, as these plants grow abundantly in their natural habitats.

Other leafy greens that are foraged in Sikkim include stinging nettles and nakima. With so much variety it is a good place for vegans to easily thrive.

One thing that always fascinates me wherever I go is the faces of the people, faces that talk about culture, tradition and geography and faces that are filled with so many stories. A Gangtok market photography would be incomplete without them.

This is Yeshey, who was kind enough to show me around and share all the interesting details about different vegetables and plants. She is an encyclopaedia of information, she knows every minute detail about all the indigenous plants, vegetables and dishes. It is a true reflection of how much she loves and appreciates her culture and tradition. All of us should be.

Here she is buying butter beans, she made an absolutely relishing vegan dish for me with it for dinner that night. She is a brilliant cook, if you are in Gangtok, I highly recommend staying at her homestay. You will get a chance to taste all the local authentic delicacies that she cooks, she made a variety of vegan dishes for me and I still keep thinking about it.

If exploring the local markets in Gangtok is on your list then going with someone who knows all the lanes, by lanes and quaint authentic shops is the best way to do it. Or going on your own could also turn out to be another kind of adventure all together.

These are wild walnuts. If you get a chance, you should definitely try it, but let me warn you, it is a really hard nut to crack. But the walnut you find inside is small and delicious, and different from the regular ones that we eat.

Tips for photographing in the market

If you ask me how to take great photos in Gangtok market – I would say go with the flow. Take your time and don’t be in a hurry. Make yourself invisible as much as possible and don’t obstruct their workflow. While candid photography is best in a marketplace like this, make sure you are soaking in all the sights, sounds and flavours of the place too.

I loved the hustle bustle and energy of Lal Bazar Gangtok market. In a way, marketplaces represent the microcosm of the culture and traditions of the place.

It also offers an insight into the local economy. It is a place where life comes together in the most vibrant way. They offer a journey of discovery and connection like no other.

I came back enriched with stories and insights of life that is different and same in many ways.

I hope this Lal Bazar Gangtok market photo essay inspires you to plan a trip to Sikkim soon and discover the place in your own unique way.

P.S. If you are exploring Gangtok, then don’t forget to visit Enchey Monastery. Check out my next piece to know why it is special – Exploring-enchey-monastery-a-tranquil-escape-in-Gangtok