I visit Amritsar only for two reasons — the soul-soothing stillness of the Golden Temple and the flaky comfort of eating Chole Kulche.
I am usually not a fan of going to religious places as most of them are crowded and not disciplined in India and I find it difficult to pray peacefully when there is too much happening around me. But one place that has always drawn me because of its high spiritual energy is the Golden Temple in Amritsar, where I can always find a corner to myself. Equally grounding is the city’s beloved Chole Kulche – a dish so popular that it carries the name of the city itself. Between these two, Amritsar is a haven for me.
If you are visiting the Golden Temple for the first time, then I would urge you to pay the first visit at night.
Unforgettable First Visit to the Golden Temple
When you wash your feet and walk towards the main door, you’ll hear the continuous chants which fill up the air, your heartbeat automatically begins to sync with it. Then as you step into the main door, you get the first glimpse of the Golden Temple shining bright against the bluish black sky, the cool air from the pool sways around you and in that moment; the sound, the sight and the gentle touch of the breeze together fills your heart with such profound bliss that you’ll never forget it in your entire lifetime.
Every time I get that first glimpse, I get goosebumps, reminding me of the spiritual energy of the place. Of course, there are many reasons for it.
Why the Golden Temple has such High Spiritual Energy
They say saints prayed at the site during the construction of the Golden Temple. The foundation stone was laid by Hazrat Mian Mir, who was a revered Sufi saint of the time.
The temple’s architecture combines elements of both Hindu and Islamic architecture, and its four entrances represent the openness to people of all faith, which enhances the energy felt by the visitors.
The sacred pool, known as the Amrit Sarovar, adds to the serene ambience and gives a calming effect when you simply sit by its edge.
And of course, the continuous chanting of the Guru Granth Sahib and kirtan, they resonate throughout the complex and generates an uplifting feeling.
Whenever I plan a visit to the Golden Temple, I make sure I have a few days in hand as I like to visit it at different times.
Visit the Golden Temple at Different Times
One is at night; second during the day for langar and third is early in the morning at 4am when there is a Palki Sahib procession. During this, the Guru Granth Sahib is carried in a palanquin from the Akal Takht to the main shrine while prayers are being said. It is followed by the opening of the holy book, and the first divine order of the day is read.
The early morning mist is still surrounding the temple, people are wrapped in warm clothes, prayers and chants are being continuously said and as the rituals are completed, you feel the serenity seeping into your body. It’s the best way to begin your day if you are in Amritsar.
After this energising ritual, I wait for the shops to open and then go for my other favourite energising activity, that is eating chole kulche. On a warm winter morning, chole kulche is the best thing that can happen to you.
Amritsari Chole Kulche : The Cultural Pride
For the uninitiated, chole is spicy chickpeas curry and kulche is stuffed bread filled with potato, onions and spices, made with maida and cooked inside a tandoor which gives it the flaky and chewy texture. It’s best eaten when it’s piping hot right out of the tandoor.
If you look into history, the origins of Kulcha can be traced to the Mughal kitchens. According to a popular legend, it was made by the royal chef and the first person to eat was the ruling King Shah Jahan. He thoroughly enjoyed it and it soon became a culinary delight and spread throughout northern India.
The Amritsari Kulcha became known for its prominent style of preparation with stuffed ingredients like onion, potato, paneer, and spices and always cooked in a tandoor. And then, with the combination of chole, it became a hearty breakfast and snack option in Amritsar.
Chole Kulche is the cultural pride of Amritsar. Any trip to Amritsar is incomplete without trying out different types of kulchas.
If you are vegan (like me) then you can order either the potato kulcha or onion kulcha and request them to not add butter to the kulcha in the end.
Street-Style Amritsari Chole Kulche
In a plate of chole kulcha, you will often find green chutney or khatta meetha chutney, sliced raw onions and pickles to accompany it.
When you break a piece of the hot kulcha, put a piece of raw onion in it, scoop in the flavourful chole curry, then dip it in the green chutney and finally pop it in your mouth – you’ll experience a burst of flavours all at once. The freshness of the mint chutney, the crispness of the kulcha, the spice mix of the curry, the softness of the chole, and the crunch of the raw sliced onion. They slowly mix in your mouth, creating the most flavourful bite you’ve ever had, and your hand quickly reaches for the next bite. When the royal chef first made the kulcha, he definitely knew what an extraordinary dish he was creating. Once you eat it, you’ll be tempted to eat it for a few other meals too.
Food & Faith in Amritsar
The experience of eating Amristari chole kulche is at once royal and grounding. You forget everything else that is happening in your life, all your worries and thoughts take a backseat and all you do is simply relish it.
That’s when you understand that food and faith are not that different. You are surrendering all your senses to it. You momentarily forget who you are. You are simply in the moment. You feel grounded and you feel at peace. You feel a deep sense of contentment. Isn’t it the same?
The recipe of chole kulche has been handed down for generations, just like the prayers in the Golden temple have been. Both hold history, identity, and comfort within them. Chole kulche feeds the body just the way faith steadies the heart. And in both, what sustains us is often invisible but deeply felt.
A trip to Amritsar is like a warm, satisfying hug to both the body and the soul. Try this combination of spirituality and chole kulche at least once in your lifetime.
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